Recently I re-read my dad's memories of his life, from his birth and upbringing in Southampton in 1919. He got as far as 1966, and one or two bits were added by family later. I looked up the two villages in the title, which are west of Salisbury and not that far from here, and thought I'd like to go and see where he had spent that very early part of the war, and felt a Brompton trip was in order.
Dad's story -
After leaving school at 14, and having various jobs, Dad trained as a draughtsman with the Ordnance Survey. When war broke out in September 1939 he was not quite 20. He had met my mum not that long before. What follows is his account of that first winter of the war.
"I went later from Southampton to Fort Widley. From there to Teffont Evias near Salisbury. It was winter and we were billeted in bell tents on the vicarage green - the tents had paving stones as a floor - a mattress was filled with straw at the Q.M.'s store and each of us had three blankets. In the morning we broke the ice on the stream nearby and washed and shaved. At the time we found it very hard but more recently, having read of what was happening at the time, there wasn't any alternative - the necessary stores and equipment didn't exist! My khaki overcoat at this time had bone buttons instead of the regulation brass.
Froom Teffont I went to Fovant a few miles away. Here I was billeted with a Mr and Mrs Read, an elderly couple who lived in a thatched cottage. He was a county council employee working on the roads. He was also a preacher at the local chapel I remember him. On Sunday evenings, sitting in his basket chair one side of the fireplace while his wife sat on the other side. On his knees would be the large family bible from which he read aloud. The earth closet of the cottage was at the bottom of the garden facing the river a few feet away. The interior of the timber hut was papered with coloured American comics - I didn't know whether this was intended to make the place draught proof or whether it was considered the only suitable place for such trashy literature.
Other members of my company were billeted in various houses throughout the village. I remember one household had six soldiers. the village hall was taken over for use as a mess room.
We hadn't any technical work to do and we hadn't a parade ground so we did some marching up and down the village street. Afternoons were spent in cross country running. Somehow our days had to be filled.
Later I went back to Teffont [Evias] - this time to be billeted in the Manor house with the parish church in its grounds. I and three others had a small room at the top of the house. We worked in a room on the ground floor using small portable tables as desks. The lorries containing printing equipment were stationed in the grounds of the house."
Later Dad sailed for Cairo, where amongst other things he worked in Tura Caves (blocks of stone had been transported from there to build the pyramids).
"The caves were enormous caverns which housed a number of drawing offices and vast printing machines for producing the maps. From Tura I went to G.H.Q. in Cairo working on target maps for RAF bombers."
I found this amazing image, and many others, on here . I don't think any of these men are my dad, but he would have worked right there -
| "Tura caves draughtsmen" |
From there he went to -
"...Taranto in Italy arriving 31st December 1944. We travelled from there in cattle trucks of the railway. There were so many men in each truck there wasn't much room. It fell to my lot to sleep on the heap of coal which had been provided for the brazier in the centre of the truck. It was bitterly cold especially in the mountains. To let the smoke out of the truck both doors were kept open. When we went through tunnels we were almost asphyxiated."
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So, I found myself an Airbnb in Fovant, which I soon learnt is famous for its "badges", and which I had a good view of from where I stayed. These badges were carved into the chalk hillside by soldiers during WW1.
| Image from Wikipedia |
Day 1
I then took NCN Route 24 out of Salisbury. I had familiarised myself with the route beforehand but it didn't seem like a cycle route at first and I wasn't sure I was going the right way, but eventually I found the blue signs. I stopped en route for coffee at a garden centre, and a call of nature at some surprisingly clean public toilets. At Wilton I was just heading to the church to see if there was a tap, when I spotted two Bromptoneers, a man and his wife, sitting on a bench, so of course I had to go and chat to them! They suggested asking in a local cafe for water, so I did while they watched my bike. I then had to cycle up a big hill out of Wilton - long and quite steep (for me anyway!). I made many stops....
Route 24 was actually quite busy, and not particularly pleasant to ride. Time was ticking on by then and I was flagging slightly, but my spirits were lifted by the lovely shop in Broad Chalke, in an old chapel (also a cafe) where I bought some supplies, though forgot two essentials - butter, and lard for my breakfast. I was annoyed with myself. I cycled on and saw a hedgeline in the distance, going up a hill, and thought -
"Oh no, is that where I've got to go?".
Yes it was - another steep and long one, but what goes up must come down, and after several stops again, I sailed down into Fovant, and found that the local shop was very close, so I was able to get my butter and lard! I actually used this shop several times - what a blessing it is for a village to have such a good shop (and Post Office).
I arrived at the Airbnb at 5.30, pretty tired. It was self contained; much as I love a good B and B this time I wanted to be able to come and go as I pleased. Phone call to Husband, food, washing up (no bowl in the sink! how silly is that!), shower and bed. I should add that after my experience with heart palpitations, on my last bike trip in June, this time I came prepared, with a home made electrolyte mixture, of sea salt, magnesium and potassium. I took some every time I drank water, and was fine. If you're interested, this was the recipe I used - electrolyte mixture.
About 18 miles - 4 to the station (easy ones!) and another 14 from Salisbury to Fovant (not so easy!)
Day 2
I walked through Fovant, and came to the chapel which must have been the one the Mr Read, in Dad's account, preached. Sadly it was locked.
I couldn't see a cottage that might have been the one where they lived, and where Dad was billeted. As I walked up the village street, I imagined my dad marching up and down it. Many of the houses would all have been there then. Did he have to look straight ahead, or did he notice these houses as he passed? This was the village hall, which was turned into their mess room. It was a grey and drizzly morning when I took these photos.
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| Fovant village hall |
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| Teffont Evias Manor (on the right) and church |
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| Teffont Evias Manor House |
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| Teffont Evias apples |
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| War Graves in Fovant churchyard |
Such a waste of life. I've learnt in recent years that wars are all about making money for somebody.
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| 1685 sundial. 2023 Brompton. |
Tisbury was slightly disappointing somehow, almost giving a run down impression, though the dull weather didn't help. The area down by the church looked worthy of further exploration but I didn't have enough time. I did find two interesting graves - that of Rudyard Kipling's parents. And I too can recommend Harry's on the Square - it looked a bit posh for me, but I'm glad I went in as I had a delicious rarebit with egg and bacon and tomato. I gave the coffee a miss, as although my earlier cup had only been instant and I was feeling the need for a proper one, it was expensive - the price was "3.5". 3.5 what? You may well ask! Why do cafes and restaurants do that these days - not use the pound sign? It really gets my goat. Pretentious if you ask me. I can imagine my dad would have said the same.

















