After the summer I felt ready for another bike trip. I decided I'd pick a base not too far from home, particularly as I wanted to use my Stanforth, and not take the train and my Brompton, and I somehow landed on Ashton Keynes, in the Cotswold Water Park, as a base. It would be ideal, as it was close enough to home to be able to relax and enjoy the journey there, but it was far enough away to enable me to explore new places.
I found a lovely tiny Airbnb house, with everything I needed, including easy access into the house with my bike. I find it very convenient to have my bike indoors, as I like being able to pack and unpack without having to go outside to a garage or whatever.
I won't write in great detail - I'll just describe the best bits of the trip, and then I'll go on to review the Arkel panniers. I went on Tuesday September 29th, and came home on Friday October 2nd. I still haven't got a camera, so the only photos are of the panniers (sorry!). Apart from that I have only words to describe the trip! But after all, in days gone by that was all you had, apart from illustrations, and I wouldn't be any good at those....actually I have got one photo for you - the bike loaded ready for off -
DAY 1:
ROUTE: I set off from home at 8.35 (5 minutes behind schedule!!) then to Uffington, Longcot, Shrivenham, Sevenhampton, Supermarine Road, to Kingsdown Lane (Swindon), Ermin Street, Blunsdon St Andrew, Tadpole Lane, Hayes Knoll, Chelworth, Waterhay, Ashton Keynes, then to South Cerney and back to Ashton Keynes.
WEATHER: Grey and misty start, then sunny and warm. A short shower in the afternoon.
WEARING: Fjall Raven Vardag trousers - as mentioned in previous post, I love these for cycling in. I bought a second pair in the summer.
I had always wondered why Supermarine Road was so-called, so click on the link in the Route if you're interested! It's something to do with Spitfires - see below for my visit to the auctioneers Dominic Winters.
What was nice about the journey there was that I basically knew the way, until I got to the north-east outskirts of Swindon, and there, as usual, I got a bit lost. I blame Husband!! the reason being that in the hour or so before I left he found a nice quiet off road route for me to take across the top of Swindon, but although I thought I had memorised it I would have preferred to have jotted it all down, but didn't have time. I didn't actually go far wrong though, and after asking a couple of people, was soon on the right road north out of Swindon. Part of it takes you over the Swindon and Cricklade railway, and up through Hayes Knoll along a part of Route 45 which is closed to vehicles.
I had a lovely stop at Waterhay, where I had diverted off route following a sign to a church. It turned out to be just the chancel of a church, the rest of the building having been taken down and rebuilt elsewhere. I thought it seemed familiar, and then realized that one of my favourite Youtubers, Wiltshire Man, had done a video about it. After looking inside, I came out to see that another cyclist had appeared by the bench where I was planning to sit and eat my lunch, and we got chatting. He said he had never seen anyone else there before! He had come from north of Bristol, was also planning to eat his lunch there, and had cycled with Wiltshire Man! We sat and put the world to rights, as you do, and then I left him to finish his lunch in peace.
I found my house in Ashton Keynes, about 2 pm, but as I couldn't go in until 4 pm I went off to Cotswold Outdoor a few miles away in South Cerney, to have a look round. I forgot that there they have lots of apple trees (must have been an orchard once) and I could have foraged some, but on my return to Ashton Keynes I found a box of free ones outside somebody's house and took some of those instead. They were delicious, and I got some the next day too. I went to the village shop and got some food, though this time I had come better prepared and had brought more with me. See that black bag on the back of the bike? That is an insulated lunch bag that I'd bought for £1 in a charity shop, and I filled it with essentials. It fits perfectly in the basket, which I got for 50p at a local jumble trail! I actually love this basket! When I stop I now have somewhere to just put something down temporarily, like gloves, or a water bottle, while I get something out of my panniers. I have lost gloves in the past from putting them on the back rack and then cycling off without putting them on again. With the basket they will stay put. It's just a small thing but it has made a big difference.
Miles: 38
DAY 2:
ROUTE: South Cerney, Upper Up (I love that name!) Shorncote, Somerford Keynes, Lower Moor, Minety, Upper Minety, Oaksey, Poole Keynes, Neigh Bridge Country Park, the Spine Road and south to Ashton Keynes.
Today was even warmer, and I wore slightly cooler trousers (Peter Storm zip-offs) which I could roll up. I think I have mastered the art of taking the right garments with me on these trips, and the right amount. Husband is always very concerned that I haven't packed something he thinks I'll need, but I have yet to miss out something really essential. I do feel like Mr Bean, when I am packing, who cut the handle off his toothbrush leaving only a little bit of it. I have a plastic toothbrush container but I don't take it because it's rather bulky - instead I put the brush head - yes, only the brush head - in a tiny plastic bag. If I were to use a bag big enough for the whole brush that would be more weight! Obvs, as they say!
My plan today was to call on a friend who works at the auctioneers Dominic Winters in South Cerney, and then go off exploring various villages. She showed me all round the various departments. I do like old stuff...... and I was particularly interested in some centuries-old fabrics they had, and also books equally old. They even had the fusilage from a Spitfire in the foyer, awaiting auction.
Then it was off to explore the villages. My aim was to make for a cafe in a nature reserve overlooking one of the lakes. I'd looked it up - Lower Moor Farm - and found the route, which included a lovely narrow lane, through Shorncote. Strange how when I got there I couldn't find any trace of a nature reserve or cafe.... Ah, I was in fact at Lower Moor (I should have looked at the map more carefully and then I'd have realized there was no lake there!) and not Lower Moor Farm (not far away). But no matter, because I then cycled on to Minety and found that the lovely village shop had some delicious edibles and did coffee too - and it was a very reasonable coffee too, especially for under £2! There was a table and benches outside on a small green. Perfick!
I cycled on through Upper Minety (looked in the church, and got water) Oaksey and Poole Keynes, and back down to Ashton Keynes. One of the good things about this area is it is fairly flat. Sometimes it's just nice not to have to cycle up hills....
Miles: 19
DAY 3:
ROUTE: Up to the Spine Road and east, then Route 45 (railway path, then road) to Siddington, Cirencester, then back out to Siddington, Upper Siddington, south on a "Quiet Lane", east to South Cerney, south to Wickwater Farm, Ashton Keynes.
The one bad thing about the house, which was otherwise lovely, was that the bed was probably the worst I have ever slept in, being ridiculously soft. I slept very badly. This morning as it was once again a misty chilly start I had a short walk, before coming back and cooking bacon and egg for breakfast. Then it was off to Cirencester, again following NCN Route 45 up the railway path. This path is very narrow in places, hardly room for two people to pass, and has quite a rough surface. It can get quite tiring riding on it - unless you are on a mountain bike perhaps.
I always find that once you get into a town, NCN route signs are much harder to find, and they are ridiculously small, and that was the case here. However, I found my way in, and out again later, with some help from local people.
I passed a group of loud youths, at least one of whom was drinking; another seemed to be showing off his bike and I was inclined to think he might well have nicked it. Another later joined them, proudly showing off a scooter, and again I wondered the same. A man passed me and said
"Welcome to broken Britain!"
One of the things on this trip that makes me think Britain is indeed a bit broken was the horrendous amount of litter on the roadsides, even in this wealthy Cotswold area. It makes me ashamed to be British. We had a trip to Austria in September to visit Eldest Son and family, and there was virtually no litter. And all the toilets were clean!
On the way back, I stopped at the Co-op in South Cerney, and as I was consulting my OS map outside the shop, a tradesman walked past, and with a broad grin said -
"I haven't seen anybody use a map for years!" to which I replied -
"I love maps!"
I do like real paper maps. I got into a lovely conversation once in Cricklade, because I had spread out my map on a wall, and a lady stopped and asked me if I was lost. We ended up walking some way together, and she even invited me back to her house for a cup of tea, but as it was getting late in the day I had to refuse. I wouldn't have had that interaction if I'd just been gazing at a smartphone.
On the way home I stopped at Twitcher's Gate to have a drink, and a twitch at the lake there.....i.e. do a bit of bird watching.
After cooking myself a meal, I then cleared up as much as I possibly could, so that in the morning there would be very little to do before setting off home.
Miles: 15
DAY 4:
ROUTE: Waterhay, Chelworth, Hayes Knoll, then Route 45 down the west side of Swindon, continuing through Old Town and Coate, out via Moor Leaze to Horpit, road then bridleway to Bourton, Shrivenham, Longcot, Uffington, home.
Good weather again - chilly, misty start but sunny before long.
After an even worse night's sleep, I set off at 8 am for home. This time, on entering Swindon, I wanted to find the part of Route 45 that goes down the west side of the town, riding first on cycle paths alongside the roads, and then again following an old railway line. I used to hate Swindon, but I'll say one thing for it and that is that it's full of cycle paths, many of which have been there for as long as we have lived in the area - over 40 years. It's actually got a lot of green areas too. In the past I would have avoided crossing any large town on a bike, but Swindon is excellent for getting about on a bike. Admittedly they can take a bit of finding sometimes, even with the aid of the Swindon cycle map (a street map as well helps) but still - they are there!
Again the surface on the old railway line was quite rough. I was glad to come across a nice pub called The Tawny Owl, on the north west side, right on the route, which was open and serving breakfast. So once again I enjoyed sitting eating outside in the sun, this time with a bacon and egg bap, and coffee. Not bad for £9.50. After a couple of mistakes, including going round in a circle and finding myself back at the pub, I did indeed manage to find my way down to the southern edge of Swindon, and out onto the familiar roads home. I made the most of my last day by stopping in a bus shelter at Bourton to make coffee on my stove. I also got two books in their phone box library, water in their church, and had a nice chat to a lady who was decorating a bench with her crocheted vegetables, for harvest festival. Husband met me about 7 miles from home and we cycled home together.
Miles: 33
What was really lovely about this trip was that I enjoyed every minute of it - there were no serious navigational errors, no long unexpected hills, no downpours. I didn't have to travel too far from home, which meant I could take things easy, relax and each day's ride, but I still saw plenty of places new to me. I think it was actually my most enjoyable trip ever! I would highly recommend the area for a cycling holiday.
THE PANNIERS: Arkel 32 litre Dolphin (16 litres per pannier)
Earlier in the year I looked at my faithful old (at least 30 years) Karrimor panniers (shown in the photo at the top) and decided that I would retire them. Funnily enough I originally bought them in the Outlet Centre in Swindon, in the days when I knew nothing about panniers, but thought they looked pretty good, and they were reduced. They actually aren't quite big enough for main panniers on a tour (I suspect they might really be front panniers) and also I had realized that roll top ones are easier to see into and remove things from. In the past I have twice bought Ortlieb panniers (front ones and rear ones) and sold them both times. In retrospect I should have kept the front ones (14.5 litres) and used them on the back, but they still wouldn't have been big enough for a tour. The big ones I found were really too big (20 litres per pannier) for my needs and also just didn't sit right on my bike - I don't know why but they just seemed to flop away from the bike.
A few years ago I bought these Carradice Carradura panniers, and did use them on a tour, but I wasn't keen on them. I did an alteration which was an improvement but I wasn't happy with them and wished I hadn't bought them.
So, I needed to get it right after all these mistakes!! The size had to be big enough, but not too big, and I particularly wanted some outside pockets. I don't know how people manage without them!
I would have liked to buy British, and I looked at Restrap ones, and again at Carradice, and some other British makes, but I just couldn't find any that exactly met my requirements. Except with these Arkel ones, which are a Canadian brand, and made in China. I sent off for two designs - the Arkel T-28 and the Dolphin 32 l, in red. I think that Arkel don't do the red any more, but Spa Cycles still have it, and I quite liked this colour as opposed to the black. Also the red fabric is slightly different to the black (less shiny). I had read a lot of good comments about the T-28s - and I did like the green! - but as I thought that the design seemed a bit weird I knew I should see them before buying. I think Arkel should put up photos of them opened up. Also the 14 litres (per pannier) wasn't quite enough.
When they arrived I discarded the T-28s pretty much straight away, and later returned them. The design might suit some people's requirements in the way they open up, like a suitcase (I should have taken photos before I sent them back!) but I didn't like it at all. But I did like the Dolphins, so I kept them.
What is good about them? They are just the right size for me, and they have outside pockets; although the big one on the front can really only take flat things like maps, it is still useful. The side pockets can take a surprising amount. I do like the roll tops - although I loved my Karrimors this way of opening really is so much better for seeing inside, and getting stuff out. The attachment system is such that it is easy enough to put them on and off the bike but not SO easy that an opportunistic thief could just whip them off. Adjusting them to fit my rack was easy, too.
And I think they look nice on my lovely Stanforth!
One day after I'd been shopping I had some cream in one of them; I stopped for some reason, and put the bike on its stand, but it fell over (the stand - that's a story for another post) and the pannier with the cream in got squashed. I didn't realize until after I got home that the carton of cream had split and the pannier was filled with cream - but not a drop had leaked out of the bag!! I gave it a good wash...
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| The knitting basket is there to prop up the panniers! |
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| The hook goes under the bottom of the rack. |
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Well, that's all for now, folks! I'll probably do a post on the stand.........
Lizzie
